When we got to Bologna, the weather forecast showed constant rain over the next few days.
We were prepared to stay indoors for most of the time, only going outside when necessary to get from place to place. We had rainjackets, but it’s always harder to get around when it’s raining.
We woke up to rain, and planned to start our day at a coffeeshop a few minutes away, down the street. Luckily, we walked along a covered walkway, and we able to make it there without getting wet.
After finishing our work and coffee, we decided to get some food in the center of town. It was still raining, but we continued along the same covered street, until we had to turn left.
This street was covered as well.
We made our way to the restaurant, moving from street to street, and we began to realize that more often than not, we were being shielded by the rain.
Bologna, it turns out, is home to almost 40 km of porticoes, porches that extend in front of buildings. That’s more than any other city.
Porticoes have a long history in Bologna, dating back hundreds of years. The city was growing, and residents wanted to expand their houses. They chose to build wooden terraces to extend outward, with columns added to support the weight. Over time, the people started to use stone and other materials.
But interestingly, the porticoes created social spaces. They were places where people could meet, do business, and work on crafts. They were also good for protection from the elements, including the heat of summer. The fascinating thing is that Bologna chose to incorporate porticoes into building regulations, setting a certain standard that had to be met.
Bologna saw the potential benefits of this building feature, and accounted for it in its urban planning.
Sometimes, it even looks like the building itself is an accessory to the portico.
Today, you can see all kinds of porticoes around the city. Square, round, tall short — they can all exist on the same street.
Piazza Maggiore, the main square, is surrounded by majestic porticoes.
Some lead to residential courtyards.
Many are still used as spaces to sit and eat, or see displays of fresh produce.
Some small streets have awnings that mimic porticoes.
Then, there are the porticoes that are so grand that you realize their importance.
Sometimes, there are lights that illuminate the path along the porticoes.
It can be cathartic to look ahead and see the beautiful designs of the structures.
In Bologna, you can walk around for days, rain or shine.
